A Tale of Dyes and Fabric

A well-fitting suit is more than just clothing—it’s a confidence booster, a professional necessity, and a style statement. Last time, we went over the 3 pillars of fashion: fit, function, and fabric.

While fit and function are the most crucial parts, fabric is often the hardest for men getting acquainted with their style to understand. I’ll walk you through the history of suit fabrics and how the landscape has changed. Finally we’ll add another pillar toyour style structure– dyes, something that might not break your fit on the surface but could affect your ability to recreate the same impact across multiple wears.

The Golden Age

1920s–1930s: Wool Takes the Lead

In the early 20th century, wool reigned supreme. Its durability, breathability, and ability to hold shape made it the fabric of choice for tailored suits. During the roaring 20s, it seemed like suits would never go out of style as it was practically a requirement for everyday life in newly blossoming urban centers. 

Men’s suits were designed for formal, structured looks, with worsted wool and flannel dominating the market. Even during the Great Depression, wool remained the go-to fabric for professionals who wanted to maintain a polished appearance.

The durability of the wool allowed for these suits to be worn nearly everyday. Culturally, most women were capable of mending and maintaining these suits and there remained a demand in the market for seamstresses and tailors making suit maintenance less of a luxury than it is today. 

1940s: Wartime Constraints Introduce Blended Fabrics

Post-Depression into World War II fabric usage went through drastic changes. 

Wool is an elite fabric and during the war, domestic interest required that the majority of wool fabric go towards military use. Wool was a critical material for the war effort because of its durability, insulation properties, and ability to keep soldiers warm and dry in varying climates.

This rationing led to the rise of wool-rayon and wool-cotton blends which were less expensive and still functional, perfect for their use in domestic products.

This era marked the beginning of experimenting with fabrics to balance cost and quality.

1950s–1970s: The Rise of Polyester

The post-war boom brought back luxurious wool fabrics, but by the 1960s, polyester suits surged in popularity due to their affordability and low maintenance. This marked the decline of suits being the class signifier they once were allowing a majority of people to obtain them.

These synthetics became staples of the mass market, culminating in the polyester-heavy leisure suits of the 1970s. Unfortunately, while cheap and durable, polyester suits often lacked breathability and elegance, tarnishing their reputation.

1980s–2000s: Wool’s Revival and New Innovations

The backlash against polyester saw a resurgence of wool in the 1980s, especially for power dressing in corporate America. By the 2000s, innovations like stretch wool and wrinkle-resistant fabrics emerged, catering to modern professionals who valued comfort and practicality. These fabric advancements allowed for a “mid-range” level of suit that would overcome the disappointments of the polyester suit while still being affordable for young professionals– Yuppies– and lower-middle and middle class men looking to get a leg up in the world and out of their hand-me-down dad suits. 

2010–Today: Balancing Tradition and Modernity

Through the 2010s, as economic growth rebounded from the recession of the past decade, more and more “fast-fashion” from overseas manufacturers began to flood North American stores and the advent of online shopping made getting clothes easier than ever, but often made with lower standards causing the quality to become worse than ever. 

While wool is still the premium choice for bespoke tailoring and high-end fashions, there is an entire spectrum of fabric quality that can explain the shocking disparity in price you might see when looking at suits online. 

Let’s go through 4 of the most common fabric groups used in suits today.

The Trade-Offs of Common Suit Fabrics

Choosing a suit fabric means weighing affordability, durability, and sustainability:

1. Wool

• Pro: Durable, breathable, and timeless. Wool suits last for years and exude professionalism.
• Con: The most expensive option, with higher maintenance costs (e.g., dry cleaning).
• Best For: Professionals looking for longevity and style.

2. Polyester

• Pro: Affordable, wrinkle-resistant, and durable. Great for young professionals on a budget.
• Con: Less breathable and prone to feeling cheap.
• Best For: Occasional wearers or entry-level suit buyers.

3. Cotton

• Pro: Lightweight and casual, perfect for summer or semi-formal occasions.
• Con: Wrinkles easily and wears out faster than wool or polyester.
• Best For: Creative professionals or summer events.

4. Linen

• Pro: Extremely breathable and eco-friendly, with a relaxed, stylish look.
• Con: Wrinkles easily and has a shorter lifespan.
• Best For: Warm climates and casual, breezy events.

Now that you understand the fabrics, let’s talk about the dyes.

Dyes are incredibly important when shopping and while most dyed garments look great before you wear them, the quality of the dyes and fabrics can (and will!) influence the appearance, durability, and sustainability of your garments.

1. Natural Fibers (Wool, Cotton, Linen): Absorb dyes deeply, offering rich, long-lasting colors. Wool, in particular, showcases vibrant navy and charcoal hues perfect for professional settings.
2. Synthetics (Polyester): Require specialized disperse dyes to bond with the fiber. While vibrant, these dyes can create colors that look less natural compared to wool.
3. Environmental Impact: Dyeing is one of the most resource-intensive steps in fabric production. Wool and linen often use more sustainable dyeing methods, while polyester dyeing can contribute to chemical runoff and microplastic pollution.

At Dolce Vita MEN we strive to provide you with well-made garments at an affordable price. There’s no reason to spend 1,000s of dollars on a bespoke tailored suit just to feel confident but it’d be irresponsible to buy cheap polyester suits whose quality deteriorates after just a few wears. 

We only work with manufacturers who create garments made of wool blends and cotton blends to bring you suits that can be mended, maintained, and worn again and again without hurting your wallet. 

If you’re ready to start developing your own professional style, head over to our website dolcevitamen.com and take a look at our Gallery with pre-styled collections to start your fashion journey off right. 

Sources:

https://refashioninghistory.com/2017/05/20/wwii-cloth-and-clothing-rations-in-the-united-states-and-europe/

https://shepherdsdream.com/north-american-wool-industry-a-brief-history/?srsltid=AfmBOopj7g7YZgSQLTFZceeBtRFf_7dOEglvHcrHlNBMQaDM65ZU5tvb